Shanky
Corsair seems to have Reddit enamored with their boards but honestly Razer boards have better caps IMO.
Razer may have better caps but the connection wire is complete shit. My last 2 keyboards have been Razer Blackwidow and both of them failed because of the USB wire connected to the keyboard. In-fact most Razer, keyboards have this crappy design. At least with the Corsair brand, they have a very secure cord that does not fail over time and use.
[quote=Shanky]
Corsair seems to have Reddit enamored with their boards but honestly Razer boards have better caps IMO.
[/quote]
Razer may have better caps but the connection wire is complete shit. My last 2 keyboards have been Razer Blackwidow and both of them failed because of the USB wire connected to the keyboard. In-fact most Razer, keyboards have this crappy design. At least with the Corsair brand, they have a very secure cord that does not fail over time and use.
I have a Leopold tenkeyless with browns and it's held up great over the years, they've been replaced with Keyed Up Labs brand though and I'm not sure how they compare... they could be the same keyboards from the same factory for all I know (looks like the shape has changed slightly and they added switches on the bottom)
A bit more expensive than Corsair and CM Storm
http://elitekeyboards.com/products.php?sub=keyed_up_labs,tenkeyless
I have a Leopold tenkeyless with browns and it's held up great over the years, they've been replaced with Keyed Up Labs brand though and I'm not sure how they compare... they could be the same keyboards from the same factory for all I know (looks like the shape has changed slightly and they added switches on the bottom)
A bit more expensive than Corsair and CM Storm
http://elitekeyboards.com/products.php?sub=keyed_up_labs,tenkeyless
ShankyBig keyboard nerd here:
Don't get Corsair boards if little things like key wobble annoy you because those things have the shittest key caps and a non-standard bottom row so aftermarket not-shit keycaps are hard to find and usually require you to buy extra add-on kits along with the standard to kit to get every key. Cooler Master and Ducky seem to have the best caps, with Cooler Master using thick ABS keycaps (cheaper plastic that wears away after a few months, leaving greasing smooth caps) and Ducky using PBT keycaps (more expensive plastic usually only found on aftermarket keycap sets. A big bonus to include these out of the box. They're more textured and won't wear away pretty much forever (source: used 3 decade old Model Ms with no obvious texture degradation)). Corsair seems to have Reddit enamored with their boards but honestly Razer boards have better caps IMO.
On the subject of key wobble: all Cherry keyswitches and most mechanical key switches in general have it bad, due to the large number of moving parts that need to slide past each other requiring large tolerances. Membrane keyboards have 1 moving part, which usually only deforms instead of undergoing any actual movement. Topre switches might be your thing but Topre boards start at like $300USD and don't click so lol.
If you're after a light clicky switch that doesn't require you to make a custom board using obscure, end-of-line switches, Cherry MX Blues are your only option. Their p nice. I'd like to spread some information about other Cherry switches incase you change your mind about the switch you want: the best switch for gaming is the best switch for typing. Switches won't make you better in the same way a mouse with a decent optical sensor will, so go with whatever feels best. Cherry MX Reds aren't designed for typing at all, and were made for industrial machine control pads. They're fucking awful and provide absolutely no tactile feedback which for a mechanical keyboard, which has an actuation point distinct from its maximum travel, is super dumb. Reds have been hyped by 'xX_GaMiNg_Xx' marketing as super fast but they're bad. Browns are like Blues but not clicky, but due to a change in manufacturing, browns made in the last 2 decades or so (ie: fucking all of them available today) have a less tactile actuation point, resulting in a 'mushy' feel similar to membrane keyboards so don't get these. Cherry MX Clears are slightly heavier than browns but retain a not-shit tactile feeling and are becoming more popular because of this. Also, all mechanical switches are loud as fuck if you bottom them out, like most people do. The sound of bottoming a switch out is way louder than the click of Blues so don't get reds or browns because you want a quiet board. There is no such thing as a quiet mechanical keyboard.
Also LEDs are super dumb and burn out after like 6 months to a year so don't buy a keyboard for LEDs. And be sure to look into alternative form factors like TKL, 60%, and my favourite, 65%.
only good advice in this thread
disagree about browns though
[quote=Shanky]Big keyboard nerd here:
Don't get Corsair boards if little things like key wobble annoy you because those things have the shittest key caps and a non-standard bottom row so aftermarket not-shit keycaps are hard to find and usually require you to buy extra add-on kits along with the standard to kit to get every key. Cooler Master and Ducky seem to have the best caps, with Cooler Master using thick ABS keycaps (cheaper plastic that wears away after a few months, leaving greasing smooth caps) and Ducky using PBT keycaps (more expensive plastic usually only found on aftermarket keycap sets. A big bonus to include these out of the box. They're more textured and won't wear away pretty much forever (source: used 3 decade old Model Ms with no obvious texture degradation)). Corsair seems to have Reddit enamored with their boards but honestly Razer boards have better caps IMO.
On the subject of key wobble: all Cherry keyswitches and most mechanical key switches in general have it bad, due to the large number of moving parts that need to slide past each other requiring large tolerances. Membrane keyboards have 1 moving part, which usually only deforms instead of undergoing any actual movement. Topre switches might be your thing but Topre boards start at like $300USD and don't click so lol.
If you're after a light clicky switch that doesn't require you to make a custom board using obscure, end-of-line switches, Cherry MX Blues are your only option. Their p nice. I'd like to spread some information about other Cherry switches incase you change your mind about the switch you want: the best switch for gaming is the best switch for typing. Switches won't make you better in the same way a mouse with a decent optical sensor will, so go with whatever feels best. Cherry MX Reds aren't designed for typing at all, and were made for industrial machine control pads. They're fucking awful and provide absolutely no tactile feedback which for a mechanical keyboard, which has an actuation point distinct from its maximum travel, is super dumb. Reds have been hyped by 'xX_GaMiNg_Xx' marketing as super fast but they're bad. Browns are like Blues but not clicky, but due to a change in manufacturing, browns made in the last 2 decades or so (ie: fucking all of them available today) have a less tactile actuation point, resulting in a 'mushy' feel similar to membrane keyboards so don't get these. Cherry MX Clears are slightly heavier than browns but retain a not-shit tactile feeling and are becoming more popular because of this. Also, all mechanical switches are loud as fuck if you bottom them out, like most people do. The sound of bottoming a switch out is way louder than the click of Blues so don't get reds or browns because you want a quiet board. There is no such thing as a quiet mechanical keyboard.
Also LEDs are super dumb and burn out after like 6 months to a year so don't buy a keyboard for LEDs. And be sure to look into alternative form factors like TKL, 60%, and my favourite, [url=http://i.imgur.com/8nOMpXk.jpg]65%[/url].[/quote]
only good advice in this thread
disagree about browns though
the corsair k65 is the best tkl i've ever used, so i'd recommend it!
the corsair k65 is the best tkl i've ever used, so i'd recommend it!