1. The VG248QE uses PWM. It either scales with the refresh rate (6x) or older versions only go up to 360Hz which is utter garbage. Even at 864Hz it's still objectively inferior to PWM free dimming. Older versions of the BenQ XL2411T also used PWM, but can't even find those anymore because the newer versions are the same price and better and the XL2411Z is also the same price and far better. XL2411Z 1, VG248QE 0
2. The colours are bad and in Lightboost they'll make your eyes bleed. Unless you think RGB works fine with just 2 colours. RGB coverage is fine, so if you invest 200$ in a colorimeter, instead of getting the XL2411Z which is the same price and comes with better colours out of the box or get a 500$ monitor which will be far better than either, and then spend 3 days calibrating it the colours will be ok. XL2411Z 2, VG248QE 0
3. See #7. At 350$ in Canada the VG248QE is a terrible deal and it's hard not to beat it. Because the XL2411Z is still better, hands down, and goes for 330$. http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/GbNp99/benq-monitor-xl2411z
XL2411Z 3, VG248QE 0

And that's just one monitor, there's others as well.

tl;dr
VG248QE:
pros: none
cons: all of them

Fuck that thing.

I especially like the part where he spams me with PMs and then ignores my advice.

Checked the HDD?
Checked for overheating?

Also there is no need to spam me with PMs.

Driver problems on Windows 10? That's unheard of. /s

Did you do a clean driver reinstall?
http://www.guru3d.com/files-details/display-driver-uninstaller-download.html

#1688
I'm not sure, it's full ATX, your current mobo is micro ATX. Depends on your case. Figure out which model it is and either google it or post it here.

A used mobo would obviously be cheaper but I'm not sure if you're comfortable with that.

You should be able to reactivate windows on the new mobo. Google it.

#1690
No, you don't need a keyboard.

Did you plug the monitor into the GPU and not the mobo/iGPU? That'd be the standard mistake.

#1685
Seem weird that you'd have a -K CPU but a B75 mobo.
I don't think you can be too picky here. Any µATX Z77 board should do. Good luck finding one though.

#1686
I saw that PSU price but it was out of stock (and the shop even said EOL) and now it has been removed completely. Assume >60$ for a PSU in AUS. That'd put you at 550$ already. I don't think it's possible on that budget, you'd have to go with a 100$ GPU.

Have you looked at some used hardware though?

#1681
Budget? Does your CPU support overclocking?

#1682
RX 470. In The Division it's a bit faster than a GTX 1060 3GB and it's also a bit cheaper.
https://www.computerbase.de/2016-09/geforce-gtx-1060-3gb-test/3/

#1683
That'd be a 1060 3GB though.

Not surprised by the choice, I just hope the 1070 wasn't the only reason he decided to go with that.

Not happening.

Anyway first do this:
Get GPU-Z.
Open Task Manager and the GPU-Z sensors tab.
Play until you can tell the fps dropped to unacceptable levels.
Tab out.
Look at the Task Manager and GPU-Z. Either the CPU or the GPU will have hit 100% usage.
Whichever hit 100% is what you want to upgrade.

So you want redundancy against a drive completely failing but don't want to actually duplicate the files?
And how do think that's supposed to work?
Oh right "the cloud".
The larger your files are and the more files you have, the worse the cloud is for backups. Maybe the daily/weekly/monthly backups won't take too much time. But how much time would the initial backup take? Yes, you have to upload everything you want to backup. It doesn't have to be quite as extreme as it would be for me, middle of nowhere = mediocre internet (thanks telekom) + a ton of data = 3 years for the initial backup, but it could still be rather annoying. And what happens if there is a failure and you need your data back? Maybe you don't mind needing a month for the initial upload, but how will you feel about having to wait a month before you have all your data back? Some services like backblaze offer to physically ship an HDD to you, but it'll obviously cost extra.

#11
Would you mind telling us what you've already tried without us having to ask first?

Paperclip test because it did weird stuff before. Ideally you'd monitor the voltages and PWR_OK signal as well but I don't think you've got the test equipment necessary for that.

Have you tried onboard graphics?

Paperclip test?

#5
No idea about prices in India. Any shops / price comparision site?
Budget?

#6
OF course I do.
http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/PSUReviewDatabase.html
No platform information but ALL the reviews so you can generally figure it out with the pictures.
orionpsudb is fairly new so they don't have all PSUs listed yet, although they keep adding more brands, platforms and models. I'll still keep using realhardtechx for the rated wattage, cabling, rail information and review links, but not having to guess the platform anymore is nice.

#7
I think Corsair used to be skimping a bit on the QC to improve their margin. Works with Seasonic since >99.9% of the PSU will still work without any issues even if it was never tested but when they got too greedy and tried the same with CWT it was a disaster (RM series).

That raises further questions:
1. Why do you have a spare CPU?
2. Why were there no "bad CPU" beeps?

Considering which PSU it is that does indeed seem likely.

You don't have to test it at your place or even take it out, just unplugging everything and doing a paperclip test might be enough. If it fails that then we know it's the PSU for sure.

#1675
Try to get a PSU that's at least 80 Plus Bronze. This one is just 80 Plus.

Maybe you can find an RX 480 for less than the 1060.
Same for the HDD, Seagate Barracuda or Toshiba P300 might be cheaper and should be faster.