Because you are literally a beta faggot.

Either just not interested or it's your emo trip and he just didn't even know, yet you expect him to keep himself available for you?
Ok.

#1702
Are those things supposed to be related? Why would you get rid of the ODD?

#1703
I'm glad you noticed that I'm not Setlet.

S.M.A.R.T. test results?
Why do you not have any backups?
Fragmentation?

#31
+FreeSync, colours still bad, the Viewsonic and Nixeus I linked should simply be better.

#27
Then I'd say your options are (all 120+Hz and FreeSync)
1080p 24":
http://pcpartpicker.com/product/rY98TW/viewsonic-monitor-xg2401
or if you don't like 23.6" then
http://pcpartpicker.com/product/f3tWGX/nixeus-monitor-nxvue24a

1080p 27":
http://pcpartpicker.com/product/kgbkcf/viewsonic-monitor-xg2701
But you said you didn't really care about the size as much so much more interesting would be

1440p 27":
http://pcpartpicker.com/product/fMcMnQ/asus-monitor-mg278q

Lightboost is difficult because it works via nVidia 3D Vision which can't officially be supported on FreeSync monitors because nVidia is being nVidia. There is a chance to get strobing to work by tricking the driver into thinking it's a different monitor or even weirder stuff, but there's no guarantee.

120+Hz + FreeSync + IPS would be around 550$ (you'll get 1440p and 27" as well so it's not that much of a premium) but that's outside of the budget.

1. Well glhf. Sometimes it will also randomly "update" to a Microsoft approved version of the gpu driver, which thanks to Microsofts approval process will actually be half a year old. And people still ask me why I won't use Windows 10.
2. Get GPU-Z, it'll tell you that and more.
3. Yeah you'll have to open the case any to check what GPU length you could fit. The wattage should be printed on the PSU somewhere.
4. You're not getting those fps in TF2 already? Just to make sure could you check the GPU usage with GPU-Z while in game? Because if it's not even close to 100% then it's not the GPU. Not sure what qualifies as medium so I'd rather just work with relative terms. How much fps are you getting right now, how much more do you want?
5. That should be more than enough.

#1697
So you never installed any driver updates before and now you're complaining?

1. Update drivers. Or even do a clean reinstall of the drivers. Unless you are on Windows 10 because that will fuck up any driver, AMD, nVidia, Intel, Logitech webcam drivers. Strangely even corrupt webcam drives with the webcam not even being connected will make the graphics driver crash. Glorious Windows 10.
Yes, I know you wanted to upgrade the card for a while, but hear me out: If it still works and it's just a driver problem, even if you insist on getting an nVidia cards only to get different driver problems, confirming the card works means you'll be able to sell, which means you can either save money or get an even better new card.
2. Your card is not a 7700, That's just the series.
3. Either figure out the exact card, so I now what length/power draw the new card can have. Or even better tell me which PSU (or at least the wattage) and CPU (gotta subtract that power draw) and measure the maximum lenght you could fit with a ruler.
4. I don't know what you think is "good". If we're talking performance I either need absolute terms (e.g. how much fps you want to get in a certain game on certain settings at a certain resolution) or relative terms (x times faster than your current one, in that case I need to know not just the series).
5. I don't know what you think is affordable or what you actually can afford and I really don't care. I don't need to know and I don't want to know. Just give me a budget to work with.

#1694
Well you'll have to make a difficult choice. 1TB under 50€ or 2TB under 70€.

You should be looking for 7200rpm and 64MB Cache.
That leaves 2 candidates each: The Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 and the Toshiba P300.
The Seagate is also sold as "Seagate Desktop HDD" (mostly the retail version) or ST2000DM001 (2TB version) or ST1000DM003 (1TB version) (the bulk version).
The Toshiba P300 can also be found as bulk version, DT01ACA200 (2TB) and DT01ACA100 (1TB), however the 1TB bulk version is usually an older one with only 32MB cache. If the P300 branded version is cheaper it's a no brainer, if not check the specs.

The Seagate 2TB version also suffers from management decisions. Instead of using 2 1TB platters some versions use 3 667GB platters. Downsides are higher failure rates, higher power consumption and most importantly lower performance. There is no way to check without getting the serial number (sometimes printed on labels on the outside of the box/anti static foil) or physically checking the HDD (inferior version has a shallower indentation on the top and weighs significantly more), so if the P300 or DT01ACA200 (2TB version is safe, only 1TB bulk might be 32MB Cache) are the same price or cheaper it's a no brainer again.

tl;dr
1TB: Seagate Desktop HDD / Barracuda 7200.14 / ST1000DM003 = Toshiba P300 > Toshiba DT01ACA100
2TB: Toshiba P300 = Toshiba DT01ACA200 > Seagate Desktop HDD / Barracuda 7200.14 / ST2000DM001
Get whichever is cheapest (possibly including shipping) of the 2 better versions in the capacity you want from whatever shop you prefer.

I like HDD and know too much about them, don't question it.
Also never question HDD model numbering schemes. Any system with a seperate number for each version will make no sense and any system that makes sense will invariably have 2 HDDs with the same number but vastly different performance.

#1695
Only the ASUS P8Z77-M PRO
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA6BM35M7365
is a Z77 mobo.
On both others you would not be able to overclock.

I mean no offense but I said

and the first time you linked a full ATX Z77 mobo, now you linked 3 µATX mobos, but 2 of those were B75.
Don't take this the wrong way but either you're not taking the time to read the specs (or just the name even) properly or you haven't really understood what I told you.

So I have to ask, to be sure: What is your current CPU?

Nice links btw, you should try them.

Maybe I should link a version from after Skylake was released, not before.
https://www.techpowerup.com/downloads/2667/throttlestop-8-10-beta-2

Check the temperatures. I wouldn't be suprised if the thermal paste isn't quite what it used to be 7 years ago.

I'm not sure if you got the temp of one of the cores, an average or the package temp, but either way I'd check for throttling.
https://www.techpowerup.com/downloads/2288/throttlestop-6-00

How did you check the HDD btw?

Temperature of what?
Check both CPU and GPU.

#14
Budget?
480 or 1060 are overkill for TF2, although they're nice to have for other games.

Also do what #16 suggested, maybe even open the Task Manager to see the CPU usage.

#15
Depending on his settings the 6570 might actually be the bottleneck. Keep in mind it's slower than a current iGPU.

#24
See, my problem is that you're not actually recommending the VG248QE. You're recommending the deal you got on it.
If you only want 120Hz and nothing else then there is absolutely nothing wrong with getting the cheapest 120Hz monitor you can find.
However
1. The VG248QE is far from being the cheapest 120Hz monitor right now.
2. At it's full price there are just far better options.
3. OP got a budget of 400$. Why sacrifice so much in features and image quality when he absolutely doesn't have to?

You are just recommending it because you liked the deal you got, with absolutely no regard for better options or what would be good for OP.

Let me show you something.
This is what the VG248QE does:

http://www.prad.de/images/monitore/asus_vg248qe/standard.jpg

This is how it should look for a TN panel, not great, but acceptable.

http://www.prad.de/images/monitore/eizo_fg2421/werk-std.png

Most people don't even know how gamma works, so how do you expect them to fix it.
If you want I can show you a readout of how far off the colours are in LB, it's hilarious.

#25
From the earliest VG248QE and XL2411T they have all used the same panel. Both got a 2nd revision later and then came the XL2411Z but they still use the same panel. There is just nothing left to improve. It's already the best 1920x1080 144Hz TN panel and the XL2411Z squeezes everything you can get out of it.
Panel manufacturers won't make a better 1920x1080 144Hz TN panel since it'd mean a worse margin for them. It has been dropping in price for a while so they'd rather sell 180 or even 240Hz panels, which are more expensive, 2560x1440 144Hz TN panels, which are also more expensive, or 1080 or 1440 144Hz IPS panels, which are even more expensive.
So while there are newer options, e.g. cheaper options without Lightboost, other options with FreeSync and so on, for Lightboost/strobing, which is what most people want for fps games and this is a forum dedicated to an fps, the BenQ XL2411Z is still the best entry level option. Far more features/better quality than the cheapest, but not much more expensive.

#1
I completely forgot about you, too mad about people still recommending the VG248QE.
27" or 24"?
1440p or 1080p?
FreeSync/G-Sync yes/no?
Lightboost yes/no?

There's lots of options with your budget.

And the temps?
Because freezes happening less often with an fps cfg sure sounds like overheating.

#19
Trust me, that's because you have nothing to compare it to.

I mean for half the price it's ok, but then again for 150$ any 120Hz monitor should be good enough.