Uninstalling with DDU didn't work?

Are you on Windows 10?

Maybe you have no AMD driver.
Have you tried having an AMD driver?

#1856
Never upgrade for the sake of upgrading. If you don't need/want better performance then there's no reason to do so.
An SSD is nice, but other than that I don't see anything that needs upgrading if you get enough fps as it is.

#1857
You can install windows on the HDD, but an SSD is the single most notable upgrade for day to day use, so I'd really get one if you can afford it.

When keys are cheaper than you can get them from microsoft then there's usually a reason for it and it's usually against the TOS. It could be that they are from a volume license but it could also be a "normal" license paid for with a stolen credit card. Either way there is a chance Microsoft might disable key.

You might be able to get windows for free through school/college/university.

#1852
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($214.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: ASRock B150M Pro4S Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($58.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: SK hynix SL308 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($69.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon RX 460 4GB WINDFORCE OC Video Card ($99.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($27.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair CXM 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($79.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $670.70
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-23 09:55 EST-0500

Slightly faster CPU
Cheaper mobo. There might be other deals on BF/CM so what you should look for is: B150 or H170 (fuck H110). Z170 is fine but more expensive because it allows overclocking and that CPU does not so unless it's cheaper for some reason don't buy it. Also 4 RAM slots. Because a) then you can upgrade by adding 2 more, instead of having to get rid of the old ones and b) if there's only 2 slots on a mobo then it's cut down in other ways as well.
2x4GB > 1x8GB. Dual Channel = Twice the bandwidth. Obviously not going to make everything twice as fast but it's free so there's no reason not to take advantage of it.
An SSD. Why wait for programs to open or maps to load when you don't have to?
A newer HDD. The RE3 is 10$ cheaper but would at best get half the speed. It's 8 years old. Think about whether you'd buy an 8 year old model of anything else, when there's a new one every one or two years.
Newer and faster GPU.
Cheaper and a bit smaller case, but I don't really care much, just showing you some options.
Much cheaper PSU. That build needs <250W, sadly there's basically no good PSU <400W. I would've gone with the 450W version (and you should if it's cheaper) but right now the 550W version is cheaper. That 750W PSU would've just been a waste of money.

#1848
Some has already been said, but no one asked the important questions yet.
Budget?
When are you going to build it? Sure, Black Friday/Cyber Monday is nice, but if you want to build next month that's obviously fine too.

No.

About 20% faster and 200$ more expensive.

#1841
Nope, works as it is.
Keep in mind due to rebranding shenanigans the BenQ ZOWIE XL2411 (I wish I put those caps for emphasis, but they actually went with CAPS) which is the exact same is cheaper than the BenQ XL2411Z. It's 289$ on newegg, didn't look anywhere else so far.

Like I said, you could get a "nicer looking" case and easily a GTX 1080 if you wanted to.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($299.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($68.49 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock Z170M Pro4S Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($92.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: GeIL EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($76.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($94.77 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card ($399.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($40.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($73.98 @ Newegg)
Monitor: BenQ XL2411Z 24.0" 144Hz Monitor ($289.00)
Total: $1486.06
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-21 18:10 EST-0500

#1838
Yeah, TF2 and CS:GO shouldn't be a problem, this is more about Bioshock etc.
If you're mostly playing TF2 and CS:GO then we're back to the good old BenQ XL2411Z, best strobing/Lightboost options at 24" 1080p.

i7 vs i5: For TF2 absolutely no difference, for CS:GO maybe a bit. But for streaming it'd be a significant difference.
I know some people use Shadowplay/VCE/QuickSync to stream, but the quality isn't great.
Price difference about 100$.
The 6700K is a special case though because you also get higher stock speeds, which is nice. Maybe 5% improvement, but that's still better than nothing (and right now the fastest CPU you could get for TF2).

I didn't ask about overclocking explicitly before so I'll do it now. Will you or won't you overclock? The budget isn't exactly restricted and it's the only way to get the absolute best performance but if you're not going to use it you'd better just save the money and upgrade sooner instead. The difference between a stock 6700 and an overclocked 6700K is 15-20% at best but including the mobo and cooler the price difference is 150-200$.

#1839
I do this on purpose, if people go all "valued customer" on me if I don't treat them like royalty I can tell them to fuck off.
So last chance, calm your tits and take the advice or leave if this is the wrong site.

There's two ways to read it. Some quick googling would have told you that there's basically only "normal" and "laptop" RAM*. So it's all good, nothing to worry about. And yes, micro ATX is the way to go. Mini ITX is usually more expensive and too small, just a pain in the ass.

*Well there are DDR3 and DDR4. DDR3 is on it's way out so don't buy that. If you get a mobo that says "DDR4" somewhere in the description and RAM that's DDR4 it will fit and work.
No you don't need 3000MHz, 2133 or 2400MHz is completely fine.

Amazon is terrible for this because they do shit like this "MSI Gaming Intel Skylake H110 LGA 1151 DDR4 USB 3.1 Micro ATX Motherboard (H110M Gaming)" where the model name ("H110M Gaming") is the absolute last thing. Why are they doing this? No idea.

Try using pcpartpicker (if you insist on using Amazon you can tell it to only use Amazon), it will tell you about incompatibilities and not even show incompatible RAM once you're selected a motherboard or vice versa (same for cases).

#1835
Ok, then feel free to throw your money away.

I'm not sure what different RAM you want? Are you trying to build a laptop?

#1836
FreeSync/G-Sync doesn't do anything if you get more fps than your refresh rate.
Lightboost might actually make things look worse if you get less fps than your refresh rate.
So it's fairly clear cut. If you're going for 288fps no matter how low you need to put the settings then Lightboost, if you want everything to look pretty but don't want your eyes to bleed because 130fps on a 144Hz monitor look terrible then FreeSync/G-Sync.

24" 1080p with either LB or Sync should be about 300$ (about half) cheaper.
There actually is a cheap 27" 1080p FreeSync monitor, but it's not that good.

#1829
Are you still alive? Have you decided what you want, as in overclocking yes or no, small form factor yes or no?

#1832
I obviously don't know the Cyber Monday deals yet, so this is just a rough sketch.

27" 1080p 144Hz FreeSync is a rare combination. Older 144Hz monitors don't have FreeSync, never 27" monitors are most likely 1440p.
Would 24" 1080p be fine or does it have to be 27"? It would most likely end up being 1440p and more expensive.

You are aware that you can't use Lightboost and FreeSync at the same time?

27" G-Sync monitors are more expensive than they have any right to be and from the top of my head I can only think of one 27" FreeSync monitor (XL2730(Z)) that can do Strobing, but it's not exactly cheap either.

Anyway, here's 2 options:
The "more reasonable" FreeSync option (also better strobing) http://pcpartpicker.com/list/Y8qbCy
and the G-Sync option pcpartpicker.com/list/LZCrYr
Yes, I know there are slightly cheaper monitors, but they are not that good and "not that good" doesn't cut it at 600$.
The PG279Q is not much more expensive, so if you want IPS that's an option too.
1080 would also be within budget.

For both you could/should probably get a better case but I don't know what you like so the N200 is a good enough placeholder that would work just fine.
The 6700K would also be possible but I don't think you'll need it.

I assumed you'd be overclocking, since I have no idea what else to do with all that budget.

#1833
You've wasted a lot of money with the Founder's Edition and the CX500 and will waste even more on a Z170 mobo and that RAM, but cheap out on the case.

To answer your question: Due to how physics work you can not fit a mobo that is larger than a case in that case. In other weirds: Either a large mobo or a small case. Both does not work.

#1
No, it can't run TF2 at 120+ fps.
And yes, AM3+ is as dead as socket can be. No new CPUs for 4 years (No, releasing the same CPU with a lower TDP again is not a new CPU), everything new will be on AM4.

Guess what, those CPUs are 2-3 months away now. So now is the worst time to buy an FX.
Bonus: TF2 uses 2 cores, a 3rd for other stuff and anything more does nothing at all. So a CPU with 8 "cores" that prioritizes multithreaded througput over single threaded performance is the worst possible choice.

#2
Nah, the default question is "Budget?"
I'm guessing he wants to run TF2.

I could tell that you wanted that sweet, sweet Lightboost, that's why I didn't even bother linking the other monitors anymore.

Glad I could help.

Yes, I meant the MG278Q and MG279Q, 4 was faster to type apparently.

Response times are lies.
http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/asus_mg248q.htm
The MG248Q (4 for real this time) sits at 3.2ms average and pays for it with large RTC errors. It's either that or 5+ ms
And then there's still 2-5ms of electronics doing stuff on top of that.
Compare the PG278Q and PG279Q. 2ms difference and I'm sure you could make that gap smaller but massive amounts of overshoot fucking with your colours defeats the point of an IPS panel, doesn't it? You're free to do it anyway in the OSD.

Amazon isn't exactly cheap.

The XL2730Z should be cheaper but is out of stock.
http://skinflint.co.uk/benq-xl2730z-9h-ldclb-qbe-a1223748.html?hloc=uk
I probably should have mentioned that it's been rebranded as "BenQ Zowie XL2730". Because there's no such thing as too much branding. Well they paid a lot for Zowie so I'll let it slide.
http://skinflint.co.uk/benq-zowie-xl2730-9h-levlb-qbe-a1491748.html?hloc=uk

Do you mean higher latency? Otherwise there would be no downside.
Actually the most significant downside should be cost. At this point there are 144Hz IPS panels (there used to be none), they are just much more expensive.
Except in this case they aren't. The MG248Q is 500$ but for 550$ you can get the MG249Q (or the XF270HU) which is literally the same with an IPS panel.

If you just want the cheapest 27" 1440p 144Hz monitor there's the XG270HU for 30$ less.
For Lightboost (or rather the BenQ Motion Blur Reduction thingie) the best option would be the XL2730Z. If I'm not mistaken you can set everything in the OSD so no problems here.

All of them offer FreeSync, which does work on Linux, is still blocked by nVidia though but coming "soon" to Intel.