Settings? Especially the stream makes quite a difference. 320*240 at 15fps runs on a toaster, 1920*1080 at 60fps means i7/Xeon minimum.
Also if you're going for minimum there will be fluctuation.

Noise, heat/power consumption, price a concern?
How reliable? URE rate? Rated read/writes per year? Warranty?
Also which shop(s) (or price comparision site), you might not be able to get some of the HDDs I'd otherwise recommend, especially Toshiba and Hitachi availability and prices are weird.

http://www.teamfortress.tv/post/498735/is-it-worth-upgrading-to-windows-10

Yes, wait for the 380X. When you actually buy a GPU in a few months I'll know the actual price in AUS and will be able to tell you if it's worth it.

#708
+~15%, 140$ down the drain.
http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/compare.php?cmp[]=71&cmp[]=2815
http://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GTX-750-Ti-vs-Nvidia-GTX-560/2187vs3155

I don't see the point of a new build with that card, it's a massive bottleneck.
Like I said, waste of money.

#709
Oh difficult decisions incoming.
Mind if I just add you? This will take a while.
The PSU is ancient and probably won't support C6/7, at least it doesn't officially.
With no overclocking the Xeon E3-1230 v5 would've been the obvious choice, but so far it doesn't seem to be working on consumer mainboards. With efficiency out of the window the E3-1231 v3 would probably be the best option again.
How soon do you want to build it?

#710
see #711 and #712, 850 Evo.

#712
You're not overclocking so B150 should be enough.
You should have a look at EVGA, GS is Seasonic, G2 is Super Flower and imho Super Flower Leadex Gold > Seasonic G.
Wait for the 380X if you can.

"a graphics GFX" my sides
graphics GFX ~ processor CPU, i think you meant graphics cfg (=config).

Anyway, you're using the iGPU inside the CPU and I don't think you can really add a discrete graphics card, so CPU upgrade only it is.
The best CPU for TF2 that fits inside your mainboard, which is also the best you can still afford, would be the i5-3570.

#706
960 4GB is a massive waste of money.
It would fit, but still be a massive waste of money.
Also any GPU you buy before knowing how much power you actually need for the settings/resolution you want is potentially a massive waste of money.
Buying a GPU that's more powerful than what you need it is a waste of money.
Buying a GPU that's less powerful than what you need it is a waste of money.
Buying a GPU earlier than you need it it is a waste of money, since prices only go down.
Buyingy a GPU right before a GPU that's still within your budget, but faster (380X) is released, is a waste of money.
There is no way to win no matter what you buy right now.

tl;dr
Not this GPU and not now. Unless you are desperate to get rid of your money.

1. It's not screen tearing. Media players should be using Vsync.
2. I wrote 140. Maybe I should've written 139 so it's more obvious. I was answering the question "Why 144Hz, not some other number?". And indeed, 24p content works well on 120 and 144Hz, not so much on 60Hz or 140Hz.
3. Blu-rays of movies that were filmed in 24p will be either 24p, 25p or 30i. Definitely not 60p.
4. Thank you for explaining G-Sync and Vsync. But that wasn't the question. It was "Why 144Hz". I never complained about 165Hz Gsync.

#703
TF2 and CS:GO would basically only benefit from a CPU upgrade and you can't get a better CPU than the one you currently got for 130 USD.
If you're getting enough fps there's no need to upgrade.

#704
Overclocking yes or no?
Which Thermaltake exactly, just curious.

I probably won't get around to doing the build until Monday though.

No, but to rule out weird downclocking you have to log the CPU frequency.

Also I assumed you're using fullscreen already, if not change it and try again.

Yeah I forgot to mention the multiples of 24. It's the main reason why 120Hz looks smoother when playing movies. On 60Hz one frame is displayed 3 times, the next only 2 times, then 3, then 2 and so on. It looks awful. Use anything other than x*24 and you lose that advantage again. Hard to sell 140Hz if it looks worse than 120Hz at first glance.
So 144Hz is the default pick.
Why 144 and not 168 or 192 or even 240Hz? Well, that's where #38 forgot a tiny little detail: Manufacturers actually have to comply with specifications. DVI allows a clockrate from 25 to 165MHz. With "normal" LCD timings you're looking at 170-180MHz for 144Hz, with reduced ~160MHz. So 144Hz is tight, 168Hz is not officially possible.

Of course you can overclock it and at home with cables way shorter than the 15 feet / 4.6m that spec was going for you can get away with far higher clocks.

Which case, µATX or full ATX?
Which PSU? Just to make sure it's not diablotek.

Just the budget isn't enough, I need to know what you're going to use it for. TF2 obviously, but what about other games? Streaming yes or no?

#22
DVI DL bandwidth is limited.
Also if you don't care about colour and resolution you probably shouldn't be looking at a 1440p IPS panel.
Just get a cheap 144Hz 1080p TN panel and overclock it. It'll look like garbage, but it'll be faster and way cheaper.

#25
Yes, depending on who you ask input lag is either the time from when the GPU sends the signal to the monitor until the pixels start changing or until they have finished changing. Marketing obviously prefers the former. They will also use numbers they pulled out of their asses. Read reviews, they use the latter so you don't have to worry about gtg either, you get the bottom line in one measurement result.

@Everyone arguing about eyes/brains refresh rate:
You are analog. You don't have a refresh rate. You don't have a clockrate.

#29
No.

1. Why would you tab out while TF2 is starting? Did you start it just to start it? Or did you actually plan on using it? Or does your pc need 10 minutes to start TF2 so you can't wait until it has started?
2. Did you know the easiest workaround for this without using windowed mode? JUST TAB BACK IN!
3. Tabbing in and out has always taken longer in fullscreen mode.

#15
100/200Hz LCD TVs use interpolation.
600Hz are simply run of the mill Plasma TVs*. If you're using that terminology there are 840Hz Plasma TVs.
Neither will accept more than a 60Hz input.

*Plasma works differently than LCD. LCD you got a continuous (or high frequency PWM) backlight. The crystals in front of it let a certain amount of light through. Rotating the crystals to a different position (->opacity) takes time. That's where ghosting/trails come from, the pixels need time to change. Plasma is completely different. You've got glowing plasma. It's either glowing or not. So to change the brightness they use a sort of PWM. The length of each strobe is variable, the number of strobes (correct term is subfield) is fixed. Guess what the standard is right now? 10. Add marketing and suddenly it's a "600Hz" TV. It used to be 8 subfields = "480Hz". Except for Pioneer, they've used 14 subfields (and didn't advertise it as "840Hz") for years.

#11
PG278Q = TN panel = faster, but worse colours
PG279Q = IPS panel = better colours, but slower (gtg, not refresh rate) and more expensive