Decoupling of IF is no bueno, but many 3600s mostly seem to work fine on >1800mhz, you may need to increase the IF voltage to get higher RAM clocks, but you could degrade the CPU by doing that so its kind of risky. Not worth it.

Just curious to what voltages/timings/settings you are running at. In theory 1.5V with B die is safe 24/7 as long as you can cool it.

That kit is running at 4400 cl15 with XMP. Not sure how you are only able to get cl14 at 3600, unless you arent giving it enough volts or something, because 4400 at cl15 is harder to run than 3733cl14. Probably an unlucky draw on your IMC.

Anyway B-die is out of many peoples budgets because it can be more expensive and overclocking ram is too much of a hassle for most people to do because of the stability issues it can bring if it isnt thoroughly tested for 24/48+ hours in a memory testing program.

4400Mhz memory is completely useless for most people and can be worse (latency) than good 3600MHz memory if you just enable XMP because of the decoupled infinity fabric - for intel you need a pretty good imc to run that if im not mistaken too. It is worth it because you can gain lots of performance on zen by tightening the primaries and some of the secondaries, but it can be annoying when diagnosing a problem. Most people will be fine with a 3600MHz kit.

Yes the PC will run TF2 on HD 4000 (assuming no dedicated GPU). It just wont run it very well. Don't expect 100fps even on low. More like 45 with a graphics config. Might get >60fps in a 6v6 game. Cant really say what FPS you will get precisely because i dont have one to test. But my expectations would be low with something like that.

I didnt know some had a 6pin. Just assumed because it was a 75W card it would use 75Wish of PCIe power. Should have known to say that because some 1050s had PCIe power, woops.

https://fr.pcpartpicker.com/products/video-card/#c=443&Q=0
All of those dont require external power and dont need any cables. Pretty sure they will all fit in that case.

I just threw the CPU upgrade in there in case he was thinking about it. Pretty pointless to upgrade that to anything more.

From using a HDD on Windows 10, and i dont know if its the services, MSRT, updates or what but it was unreasonably slow, like opening explorer/programs, searching and stuff like that would take 15-20 seconds.
I thought it wouldnt be unreasonable to have a separate "gaming" drive and then he still keeps all the data+programs on the Hard Drive and its still bootable.

That may become annoying if they want to use some of the programs on the other drive that needs a license key to work, so they would have to boot into the other drive - but I didnt think of that >_>. And I doubt he wants to image the drive onto an SSD. I just hate using Hard Drives on windows 10. No FPS gains, but I still felt it was important to say.

I can say with some certainty that the PSU on that doesnt have a 6PIN. Adapters are kind of sketchy, so I would instead go for the 75W 1650, which will work 100% with no extra cables needed. You would need a molex or SATA power to 6pin adapter if you wanted the 1650 Super.

The CPU upgrades make no sense honestly. The CPUs are overpriced on the used market and unless you want to gamble on a skylake xeon, which i wouldnt, the best you could hope for that is probably a 6700 or maybe if you update the bios a 7700, because your cooler is probably the horrible stock Intel cooler. You probably will gain more performance getting dual channel memory.

Windows 10 hates hard drives. It runs soooo slowly with a hard drive, to the point that i think an SSD in 2020 is a necessity. You can reuse the SSD in another system also so I think you should get a cheap WD Green or something.

You are cutting it close a bit with the power supply. Maybe a 550W just to be safe but it should be fine.

Not familiar with that board, but it doesnt look that good honestly. 2 Ram slots, 2 pcie slots, and a bad VRM. thats the one thing i would change 100%. I would get something more expensive like an ASRock B450 Pro4, as the one you have is pretty barebones/bad.

2400MHz RAM is 2015 levels of performance. You can get 3200MHz for a couple pounds more and it will be way faster, especially for Ryzen (you can raise the infinity fabric clock in the bios now but RAM speed/latency still matters)

Hyper 212 is good but it isnt the best thing out there. I always say Noctua NH-U14S because their mounting system and support are excellent, but Scythe Mugen coolers, Cryorig H7 and BeQuiet! pure rock are basically the same performance but cheaper. This will allow the CPU boost higher naturally or allow for some manual overclocking. Either way your pc runs faster.

Not everyone does this but i like to buy a fan or 2 for some better airflow for the GPU, CPU and VRM. Can lower CPU temps by a few degrees and makes the system quieter.

Generally I thought of those brands offering comparably more expensive parts which was why I mentioned them to highlight the cost of origin config. But yeah you're right.

What size are you looking for?

Are we talking like a Fractal Design Nano S or like a DanCases A4? Without a size limitation it's hard to know what stuff can fit in without problems. If you want as small as possible you want it like the DanCases A4, but you are going to need mini ITX motherboards, which isnt ideal for numerous reasons.

Have a browse through PC Partpicker's case selection. Some niche small cases might not be on there though but generally you can find something there, probably only looking at mini/micro atx type.
https://pcpartpicker.com/products/case/

Ryzen is pretty power efficient, but Intel can be just as power efficient too, maybe uses a bit more power.
A R5 3600 or 3700X are good choices for AMD because they are low TDP parts
Maybe you could get away with an i5 9600kf for Intel

but depending on the case you chose depends on the processor you can put in it because you need space to cool it.

I assume high frames means around 120fps and you are on a 1080p monitor.

You'll probably be fine with a 1660 SUPER or a 5500 XT if you just want 1080p low for all the games you play (or even the GPU you have now), but you need to be a bit more specific about what 'mainstream' titles you want to play and the settings you want, because that's a bit too vague for a solid choice.

He is using origin for a system builder i think. It is like 6k USD for all of that gear which is overpriced for what you are getting tbh. You should have a noctua cooler, a seasonic psu and 3600mhz memory for that price.

You should try build it yourself because origin are a bit overpriced. Also you mentioned moving it from 1 case to another so this wont be that much extra effort.

Also you cant really overclock Ryzen 1/2/3000 more than 150 mhz reliably. You can PBO and AutoOC, which allows the cpu to draw more power automatically basically, but thats it really. If you want to get into it, you can get into CCD and CCX overclocking, but that takes forever to do.
Best way to overclock ryzen is to get Samsung B-die ram modules and tighten the CAS timings as much as you can, starting with Ryzen DRAM calculator as a base. Buildzoid has some PBO and RAM overclocking videos on his youtube channel.

Get a decent gen 3 SSD and get either a high capacity drive or a NAS if you are going all out for storage. Gen4 ssds dont offer much extra other than it runs hotter for no apparent gain for most people.

If you want all out, you are probably gonna have to go custom water cooling because the 240mm CLCs are not good at all compared to a good noctua cooler in terms of noise and performance. You would only go for CLCs for the absorbing heat better when the CPU spikes when idle. But it's idle so it makes no difference at all to performance.

Also CLCs WILL fail eventually, so an NH-D15 is a good choice to go all out. It performs like 1 degree better than other dual tower coolers and it comes with fairly decent paste in the box.

You shouldnt cheap out on a case. Bad airflow can cause your system to run 10C hotter for no reason. Get decent fans that are as big as you can fit in a case, so you have the most airflow at the lowest audible noise.

Also you dont need a gamer antivirus. Windows defender is adequate for most people. Not that well versed in anti-viruses nowadays, but avoid avast and AVG. Malwarebytes always a good choice.

Some 5700 xts seem to have had driver issues for months with flickering, black screens etc. Some cards seem to be unaffected though, and some driver versions are fine. Not saying you shouldnt buy it, but something to be mindful of.

imo this has a better cooler for essentially the same price:
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/6kdrxr/gigabyte-radeon-rx-5700-xt-8-gb-gaming-oc-video-card-gv-r57xtgaming-oc-8gd

NVIDIA 2060 (super) cards have a better video encoder but less FPS in games and ray tracing cores for about the same price, so eh depends what is more important to you. Pretty sure new GPUs are coming (soonish?) - big navi, 'rtx 3000' - but these are 'rumors' of course.

I would get an inexpensive tower cooler for my CPU so it doesnt run hot and noisy all the time but it wont really affect performance much (maybe 50-250mhz if you PBO).

@tobs Is the system benchmarking well in Cinebench r15 and other benchmarks?

What is your cooling like? Ryzen 3 is very temperature dependent to get good clock speeds. Try running HWINFO64 and record the clockspeeds and temperatures you see in game. If you hit 80 degrees you will throttle down, below 4ghz.

Last time i checked, PBO on 3rd gen ryzen does nothing and potentially decreases performance, but im not sure about the situation right now.

If your clock speeds and stuff are fine try changing the process affinity of hl2.exe to 1 ccx. So for example core 0. core1, core2, core3,core4,core5, core 6, core7 in task manager.

It's possible you accidentally changed a setting in the UEFI so if you could clear all the settings and start from stock. See what affect that has on your FPS and reenable each setting until you find the problem.

Also its possible you have an outdated bios or bad chipset driver installed. If you reused an existing drive with intel stuff on it, it's possible you need to do a clean reinstall.

Disabling all but 1 CCX for AMD users (so you potentially disable 50-75% of your cores) is a terrible idea as you can easily accomplish the same thing with process affinities, which can be automated with Process Lasso or a launch option.

Some motherboards and laptops just have bad latency due to bad audio drivers, WiFi or other devices so this won't make a difference. Using LatencyMon, or Windows ADK for a more in-depth analysis, to find the troublesome driver or device is the better way instead of shooting in the dark.

Worrying about removing a couple microseconds of input latency isn't worth it and you will get more benefit from upgrading your peripherals, especially when you significantly increase the risk of reducing system stability. Some of this stuff is already set to the best values so you don't need to do anything. If you can, overclocking the CPU to the maximum speed will get the best results along with a clean windows install de-bloated.

If you are at stock RAM speeds your FPS will be drastically lower because the infinity fabric of the CPU is tied to the RAM speed, so your CPU will run effectively run slower.

If you are running at 2133MHz RAM it will run a lot slower than say 3200MHz RAM. What RAM do you have? Is XMP for your RAM on?

Use Ryzen Timing Checker and check MEMCLK ratio and see if it matches your RAMs advertised speed. If your RAM supports XMP, turn it on in the BIOS.

What do you plan on doing with the PC and what are your expectations?

Laptops are relatively small compared to desktops, so are not only power restricted, but also thermally too. NVIDIA GPU boost will reduce clocks the higher your temperature is until a threshold when clocks drop dramatically. Intel CPUs don't thermal throttle until a specific limit that the manufacturer normally sets between 90-105 degrees. This assumes you don't reach any current or power limits which you probably also will.

You won't lose out on much performance, maybe 10% tops in GPU bound situations I bet.

From videos I see online in gaming situations that specific laptop will turbo to 3.5-3.9GHz in "modern" games at about 80-90C on the CPU and above 1600MHz on the GPU. Hard to find any real testing on it though.

You pretty much can't have desktop performance in a laptop because the power and thermal restraints are there. There are virtually no benchmarks online for this notebook so I can't tell you if you lose 30% or any specific number of FPS. It will probably fine to run TF2 on it though at 200+FPS with a config. It will probably never reach 4.5GHz in anything that matters and only can boost up to 4GHz in all core situations max.

Check for background applications and see if any are misbehaving or using a lot of cpu.

lowering your resolution will help a bit too.

Disabling fullscreen optimizations works for a few extra fps in the compatibility tab of hl2.exe

No hats / cleantf2 can boost your fps too

Might be useful to know what frequency your GPU and CPU is when running tf2 use something like hwinfo64 and look at limit reasons for cpu/gpu. You may be power throttling instead of thermal.

You can try reinstalling windows, that might help.

If your ram isnt soldered, you can buy another stick of DDR3 for dual channel mode which can boost performance a lot if you're comfortable opening up your laptop and putting another stick in. Check with your laptop model if you can add another stick of ram in and what type you need.

If you are truly desperate (dont do this unless you know for sure what you are doing) but there was some old broadwell microcode that allowed you to set your cpu multiplier to any amount, allowing you to overclock your CPU. Don't do this unless you know exactly what you are getting yourself into. I dont know where this is and i suggest not doing it because you need extra cooling and it might reduce your laptops battery life.

Your pc is weak. It is a dual core with hyperthreading from 2015 with a max boost of 2.7GHz with probably stock speeds/timings on your RAM. If none of these work consider upgrading your pc. Hope something works out for you.

GPU: RX 580 8GB stock clocks (19.5.2)
CPU: Ryzen 5 2600x with PBO maxed out with voltage offset and LLC
RAM: G-SKILL F4-3200C14-8GTZSW (3466 14-15-14-28-1T)
MB: MSI B450 GAMING PRO CARBON AC
OS: Windows 10 Education 1809 64bit
CFG: Mastercomfig experimental, 1080p, DX8.1

Core affinities 4, 6, 8, 10 gives me best performance. Normal priority
Can get higher FPS if I use a fixed voltage but it doesnt downvolt at idle so I dont bother because it only adds about 5-6fps.

And the mastercomfig demo

Did get 308fps in this demo with the fixed voltage I mentioned before.