Ok, this is even better than I thought.
First of all it's already pretty sad when a native speaker misuses an idiom, but getting corrected by a non-native speaker must be embarassing.
What I'm really getting is that the time and effort I'm willing to put into helping you is directly proportional to the time and effort you're willing to put in. Grammatical and spelling errors are usually not a good sign.
A double post is bad, unless there is no edit function or the second post contains new information that only became known quite a while after the first post so that if you were to just edit it the people you're hoping to get help from would never see it.
However a triple post with none of the posts containing actual information is just prove that someone doesn't think before they post.
Either you don't know that you can edit your posts or you're one of those people that deserve a special place in hell.

Now back on topic.
1. You never posted the answers to those questions. Someone else did because you were too lazy to do it.
2. That someone also confirmed that you were indeed using a Single Link DVI cable.
3. Instead of just posting in that thread you made a new one.
4. And refused to tell us if the cable you're now talking about was actually Dual Link, the same Single Link cable that you used earlier or another Single Link cable.

I still don't know which monitor or GPU we're talking about. The only way this could get even funnier is if you were using VSync, bought a 144Hz monitor, then bought a new GPU with DVI Dual Link ports only to realise that you're not getting 144fps and it's dropping you down to 72fps (or even 36fps).

#24
Sorry, my bad.
Obviously fps don't matter if you only care about calculations per seconds.
Fps only matter if you care about fps.
I just didn't expect you to use a GT 720 as a compute card since you wanted to connect a 144Hz monitor to it. Also I've seen asians with a pocket calculator get compute work done faster than that card.

#27
I know, right?
At this point I'm just riding the +frags and keeping it going to see more of his "Ken M"-esque genius.

1. Did your monitor come with a DVI Dual Link cable? Most come with one somewhere between 3 and 6 feet so just test with that. If it still doesn't work it's not your cables fault.
2. Which "144hz compatible monitor"?
3. Did you buy a DVI-D Single Link or Dual Link cable?

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/cb/DVI_Connector_Types-r.svg/181px-DVI_Connector_Types-r.svg.png

I'm looking forward to him complaining about not getting as many fps as he expected.

50$ butter
http://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GeForce-GT-720-vs-Intel-HD-3000-Desktop-V2-135-GHz/m12696vs2170

60$ butter
http://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/AMD-R7-250X-vs-Intel-HD-3000-Desktop-V2-135-GHz/m8719vs2170

Taking bets now that instead of getting an acceptable low end GPU he somehow found one that's even worse than the GT 720, maybe even worse than the HD 3000.

#1255
Games like TF2 or just TF2?
And what games are like TF2?

#1256
Asus and BenQ make about 100 different monitors. I'm not sure which ones you mean.
Do you want a 24" or 27" monitor?
Overclocking is fairly time consuming though.

#1252
1./8. is not ideal since there will be new AMD cards in June which should be interesting.
2. Same
3. Easy in Borderlands 2 and Skyrim, but not really happening in The Division anyway.
4. Ok.
5. Hard to know if you'd like if you've never seen it.
6. I don't think you know what G-Sync/FreeSync are. You should probably read up on it.
7. Ok.

I'm not exactly sure what you mean with "Price range (minimum for TF2): ~1300$".

Regarding 3. http://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/the-division-pc-graphics-performance-benchmark-review,6.html
A 300-400$ GPU right now gets you ~60fps, if you were willing to wait you could get >80 at the same price. Your choice.

#1253
Good build for what?

#1250
Good news, you won't have to spend nearly as much.
Some questions first:
1. Can you wait until June?
2. Can you wait until October?
3. Do you want >144fps in those other games?
4. Monitor resolution 1920*1080 or higher?
5. Do you want Lightboost?
6. Do you want FreeSync/G-Sync?
7. Are you going to overclock?
8. When would you ideally want to build it?

#427
Only worth it in a very specific case:

You're only buying a new monitor, not a new GPU as well or you're already looking at the fastest reasonably priced single GPU (Titans don't count). Otherwise getting a better GPU (+ triple buffered VSync) solves the problem just as well and you get more fps.

Then you need at least one game which meets all of these criteria:
-you can't get enough fps to match/exceed your monitors refresh rate at all times
-the drops below the refresh rate are not acceptable
-you are not willing to lower the settings
-you won't be using Lightboost/ULMB in that game.

That said this only applies if there is a premium.
Let's take a look at one monitor which actually does come in all three versions, the AOC G2460:
G2460PQU, the old/base version sells for around 250$. 144Hz, but neither G-Sync nor FreeSync.
G2460PF, the FreeSync version, usually around 260$, actually on sale right now for 210$. Yeah I could live with that "premium". Even when not on sale you get FreeSync from 35 to 144Hz* for 10$, so I'd say it's worth it. Can't really get a better GPU for 10$ more.
And then there's the G2460PG. You can experience the great technical superiority of G-Sync for only 350$. A 100$ premium. How is it superior? Well the range is 30 to 144Hz. Not that this is actually any better since you could get the PF to do that as well (see footnote) but due to the way nVidia does it and let's you pay for it, it costs 100$ more.

*It used to be 48-144Hz due to a bug, but a driver update fixes that. There is actually one beta driver that allows 30-146Hz (yes 146).

tl;dr
FreeSync probably worth it, since it's essentially free. If there is version of the monitor you want that supports it, it'll either be the cheapest version or just a slightly newer version that's almost the same price.
G-Sync probably not worth it due to 100$ premium.

For just TF2 integrated graphics should be good enough anyway if your CPU is somewhat recent.
Since it's only two weeks now Polaris is definitely worth waiting for.

#52
Now that reviews are out I can confirm that it's literally Maxwell "copy pasted" to 16nm FF.
Except for one minor organisational detail (5 instead of 4 SMMs per GPC) it's exactly the same.
Performance per clock is exactly the same.

You can actually do performance calculations with that.
980 Ti average boost clockrate around 1100MHz.
1080 average boost clockrate around 1650MHz.
2816 Shaders on the 980 Ti.
2560 Shaders on the 1080.

1650/1100 * 2560/2816 = 1.36
+35% is pretty much exactly where the 1080 ends up in most benchmarks, some slightly worse, some slightly better.

#1245
Ok, post again in September.

#1246
Same, post again in June in case I forget.

#1247
Basically what #1248 said. The best thing to do would be to just move everything to a normal sized case.

There is no such thing as "ivy-bridge-compatible". It's got a PCIe slot? Any PCIe GPU will work (and you won't find anything but PCIe GPUs these days).

Are you people doing this on purpose, posting just when I'm away for 3 days?
Or is it just the weekend?

#1238
For TF2 and OW I don't think going above an i3 would do anything. That means I know it won't do anything for TF2 and I'm pretty sure OW is gpu bound, although I haven't tested it or seen any tests specifically testing that.

I don't really like mITX since those cases tend to be fairly cramped (this with more cables since your PSU is non-modular) so if you don't really need it (you had a full ATX tower before) I would stick to mATX. You're also really limited in terms of slots. Upgrade RAM? Both slots already full, need to replace your RAM and buy new one instead of just adding two more sticks. Want a soundcard? Not happening.
You're also cutting corners on the SSD.

What's your budget? Assuming 400$ I'd do something like this or even just keep the old case:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-6320 3.9GHz Dual-Core Processor ($152.81 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B150M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($76.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill NT Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($31.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($85.79 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 650 Ti 2GB Video Card (Purchased For $0.00)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $0.00)
Optical Drive: Sony AD-7200S-0B DVD/CD Writer (Purchased For $0.00)
Total: $387.55
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-16 13:57 EDT-0400

#1239
Well you can try buying the cards that will release in the first and second week of June now. Chances are however that no matter how close they are, you'll have to wait until then (unless you are capable of very limited time travel).
Generally even if they were released yet I wouldn't buy before I've seen reviews.
So you'll have to wait until the start of June, like I said you should.

I'm still missing some context though.
What are you going to be using it for?
Which 700W PSU?

#1240
-Only worth upgrading for rendering, don't expect any gains in TF2 (assuming the 3570K is overclocked).
-Which cooler?
-mATX ftw, I'm with you on that one.
-Looks pretty good actually.
-GPU doesn't matter for TF2
-Well for rendering you probably want 16GB. Beyond that it doesn't matter much.
-Yes, you need Z170 to overclock. Other than that if you don't know what it is you probably don't need it. Z170 in itself is high end, so even the cheapest Z170 mobo should have everything you'll need and then some more.

There's always some things you can optimize, but in your case not too much unless you're willing to wait for Kaby Lake (new CPUs). Even though the launches should start in Q3 2016 it'll take until Q2 2017 for everything to be released and it's rumoured that Desktop SKUs are some of the last to be released so I wouldn't hold my breath.

The Node 804 is pretty expensive for a mATX case, so there's definitely cheaper alternatives. It's also really wide, so if you want that it's great, but it's not exactly small form factor.

Other than that a cheaper mobo (sale ended-> +30$), some cheaper and faster RAM -> a bit over 50$ saved.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($343.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: GeIL EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($53.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Node 804 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($106.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $594.95
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-16 14:18 EDT-0400

#1242
Depends on what you mean with "after summer". With your budget you're looking at Kaby Lake, which as mentioned above will start releasing in Q3 2016 but it might take until Q2 2017 for the Desktop parts. It might be worth waiting until August if you're not in a hurry, because by then we should know what will be released when. If the Desktop CPUs are planned for September you can wait, if they're planned for 2017 you still get to enjoy the new GPUs.

Other than that the usual preliminary question: Overclocking yes or no?

#1243
Don't recommend an i7-6700K and a Z170 mobo until you know they want to overclock. ;-)

#1235
I'd need to know your budget but no, I don't see a reason to upgrade now or at all for that matter. Your GPU is good enough to get 60 fps in Overwatch on low settings and for TF2 it doesn't matter.
The only thing you could upgrade is your CPU, but that would mean a new mobo and RAM too so it'd be quite expensive and new CPUs relevant for you are only getting released later this year (which is when you might want to upgrade).

Neither of those are likely to be the cause of bluescreens. 90% of the time it's Windows and you can just fix or reinstall that without buying new hardware.

#1232
Now it makes a bit more sense but I think I'm still missing some context. Not going to play the guessing game.

#1233
Ok, post here again in June. You said he's willing to wait for the Pascal/Polaris release so I'd recommend him to do just that.

#1229
I still don't know your budget. It would also be interesting to know if you're already using all DIMM slots. Either way more RAM seems like a fairly cheap and worthwhile upgrade.

#1230
In that case you should probably ask again around the start of August.
Prices will change and there will be new GPUs. At this point I could only guess and end up missing the budget target by 100-200$ in either direction.