#1909
1. Price != performance.
2. The stock cooler is fine.

Let's ask the science side of 4chan. There are two competing theories, but they both say it depends on the situation.

https://i.redditmedia.com/LWraK-DqI2lpJcaWwspDByVdSfaZEWIqAnWOBDNLZCQ.jpg?w=802&s=e21681ab3ef86510f6bdb10b888a02b2

http://i.imgur.com/RHbXrLa.png

#1907
Not a fan of the case but I left it for now.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($191.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock B150M Pro4V Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($72.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Mushkin Blackline 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($71.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($93.11 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.70 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($423.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair SPEC-02 ATX Mid Tower Case ($54.99 @ B&H)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($68.89 @ OutletPC)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($18.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1045.42
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-12-03 08:02 EST-0500

#1902
I think you got the wrong PSU.
The G2 (and P2/T2) are the those that have been praised by every reviewer.
The Nex is ancient and mediocre, but for some reason still sold and at the same price.
http://pcpartpicker.com/product/qYTrxr/evga-power-supply-220g20550y1

#1903
If he wanted a prebuilt are you sure he's going to overclock?
Also I don't think you need an i7.
A 1060 is the official bare minimum for VR and I think you know how well games run on the minimum recommended hardware, so I'd put more money into the GPU and less towards the CPU/overclocking.
A better PSU and case would also be worthwhile.

Which GPU exactly depends on if you're going to drop the i7, overclocking or both.

#1904
Depends on the price. If the used monitors are cheaper it'S a no brainer. You're not exactly looking for quality on this budget, just a cheap monitor that works.

I do not recommend headsets. Headphones + mic are better 99% of the time.

Mechanical keyboard switches don't make a sound unless they are supposed to (e.g. Cherry MX Blue), you get clicking when you bottom out which happens for example on reds. Others have "tactile feedback" (browns etc.) which means you feel a "click" once the key counts as pressed so you don't have to bottom out. -> much quieter
Also rubber dome feels terrible compared to mechanical. I suggest you try one.

DPI are pretty much meaningless.

Do some research on peripherals, there's no need for me to copy paste it all here. E.g. for mechanical keyboards take a look at the /r/mechanicalkeyboards wiki.

I generally recommend not getting a mobo with only 2 RAM slots. It makes upgrading more expensive since you can't keep your old RAM (unless you were running single channel before) and it means they're really scraping the bottom of the barrels and are cutting corners wherever they can. E.g. onboards sound will also be worse, fewer USB ports etc.

Same for PSUs. If it can't make 80+ Bronze, a decade old standard, then it's either an ancient design and shouldn't even be sold anymore or they've used the cheapest components they could find and in that case it should never be sold in the first place.

Basically figure out the peripherals first so I know how much is left for the rest.

Any updates?

The idea wasn't that bad.

Not quite sure if I remember the partlist right, but I think it hinged on a 90$ 750 Ti, right? Without that it just doesn't work anymore.

Anyway I forgot to ask earlier if you've already got an HDD/SSD. I assumed you're reusing an old one, but I just want to make sure.

#1895
You can't delete posts.
Why would you though?

Changed your mind about the partlist you made?

If they manage to not take any screenshots in the final as well they basically depend on Crowns delivering the screenshots if they want any money at all.
Even if the minor for the missing demo and the major for 3 minors are ignored they are already at -50% prize. Unless admin discretion of course.
If only there was a prize pool so it actually mattered.

#1890
Budget?
Cooler?
I'm assuming you're going to overclock.

#1891
Thanks, that makes it much easier than having to guess.

For trash settings I'd drop the GPU and get a better CPU. You can still get a GPU later if you want to, but TF2 and CS:GO on the lowest clocked Pentium won't be that great.

Prices will change until mid December obviously, but something along the lines of this should be better.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($139.49 @ DirectCanada)
Motherboard: MSI B150M BAZOOKA Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($79.99 @ NCIX)
Memory: Crucial 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($47.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Case: Fractal Design Core 1000 USB 3.0 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($31.99 @ NCIX)
Power Supply: Corsair CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($42.98 @ NCIX)
Monitor: Acer G226HQLBbd 21.5" 60Hz Monitor ($107.99 @ NCIX)
Keyboard: Redragon S101 Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse ($37.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Headphones: Thermaltake CRONOS AD Headset ($59.00 @ Vuugo)
Total: $547.42
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-28 17:59 EST-0500

#1892
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($214.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock B150M Pro4V Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($65.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Mushkin Blackline 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($47.87 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($72.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Hitachi Ultrastar 7K3000 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB G1 Gaming Video Card ($254.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($25.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $761.80
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-28 18:19 EST-0500

Upgrades all around.
RX 480 https://pcpartpicker.com/product/W34NnQ/gigabyte-radeon-rx-480-8gb-g1-gaming-video-card-gv-rx480g1-gaming-8gd
If you don't want to put up with some of the recent nVidia bullshit.

Would you care to share what that budget is or is it a secret?

When do you plan on building it?

#1879/#1883
Like #1880/#1884 said there is no difference* between cables. HDMI is backwards compatible so if you connect a 1.2 device to a 2.0 device it'll just use HDMI 1.2.

*Shielding makes a difference once you go above a certain length, but I doubt your monitor is 10m away. So even the cheapest cable you can find will work.

#1882
It exists. With the 1200$ you could afford it.
The cheapest 144Hz FreeSync monitor right now is the Asus MG248Q, which should support Lightboost as well. Colours aren't great, but that's expected from a 200$ 144Hz monitor.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/9XTvqk

#1885
Budget?
What are you going to use it for?

#1886
Considering only AMD and Intel even make processors and AMD hasn't released any new ones in 4 years (they will in 2017 though) I don't think you'd have a choice even if the intel processors were terrible.

Do you have a budget?

Yeah, it got an HDMI output. Just buy an HDMI cable if you don't have one already and you're good.

#1874
Yep, that's 200W for everything.

Nope, not even DVI to VGA adapters will work because they need DVI-I (combined analog/digital) and new cards now only have DVI-D (strictly digital).
You need either an active adapters (input lag ahoy) or a new monitor. Or a different GPU.

#1875
Ok, then I'd just get the 6600.
Changed the PSU because the deal on the 550W version ended, but is still going on the 650W version.

The CM SickleFlow isn't that good though. Changed fans as well. If you want significantly quieter ones you have to spend a bit more. https://pcpartpicker.com/product/htnG3C/scythe-case-fan-sm1225gf12shp

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($214.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: ASRock B150M Pro4S Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($54.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($51.14 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($79.99 @ B&H)
Video Card: MSI Radeon RX 480 4GB GAMING X Video Card ($179.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($27.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Case Fan: Scythe Slipstream 110.3 CFM 120mm Fan ($6.88 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Scythe Slipstream 110.3 CFM 120mm Fan ($6.88 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Scythe Slipstream 110.3 CFM 120mm Fan ($6.88 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Acer GN246HL 24.0" 144Hz Monitor ($188.83 @ B&H)
Keyboard: Corsair K70 LUX Wired Gaming Keyboard ($84.99 @ Newegg)
Mouse: Zowie EC2-A Wired Optical Mouse ($59.89 @ OutletPC)
Headphones: Kingston HyperX Cloud Revolver Headset ($84.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1098.41
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-27 16:20 EST-0500

A 1060 drawing 200W seems rather unlikely.
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/nvidia-geforce-gtx-1060-pascal,4679-7.html
120W at 2100MHz and on 4K.

Would love to see the source on that 200W 1060.

pcpartpicker uses rather conservative estimates, on stock clocks that build won't even break 300W.

Yep, type 3.

So the problem is it's better to replace the GPU (or add a second one, should explicit multi adapter and other options be widely supported by the time) rather than the CPU. After 3 years replacing the CPU most likely means replacing at least the motherboard as well, that's usually 400-500$. Obviously more if you go beyond the 300$ class of CPUs.
The other thing is CPUs don't improve much anymore (well, not quite, more on that later), whereas GPUs do.
Remember the original Titan? Or Titan Black? Or the previous Titan X?
Quick timeline:
02/2013 Titan, 1000$
11/2013 780 Ti, faster than Titan 700$, rip future proofing.
02/2014 Titan Black, 780 Ti with 6GB, ends up being slower than the 780 Ti due to more VRAM cutting into the power budget, 1000$. nVidia does not allow 780 Ti 6GB versions because they want you to pay 300$ for that.
09/2014 980, Titan Black performance, 550$
03/2015 Titan X, 1000$
06/2015 980 Ti, cut down Titan X, but again half the VRAM so it boosts higher and ends up being the same speed, 650$

For comparision:
06/2016 1060, roughly the same performance as the Titan Black, 300$.

You should see the pattern.
1. Don't buy a Titan, wait for the reasonably priced version.
2. Buy cheaper and upgrade more often if you can.
A 600$ GPU now and another 600$ GPU in 2-3 years will get you a much better performance in 4-5 years.

Now about the Titan X Pascal specifically.
In terms of hardware it's exactly 40% "larger" than the 1080. You can also guess that on a bigger GPU (+40%) with a power budget that's less than 40% larger the clocks are definitely not going to be higher. And that's exactly what happens. Then there's also the problem that nVidia doesn't want anyone cutting in on their profit margins so until recently they only sold the Titan XP themselves and still don't allow aftermarket coolers. So the 20-30% lead (depending on resolution) gets even smaller when compared to aftermarket 1080s.

But wait, there's more. 3584 seems like a strange number of cores, especially since the 1080 got 2560 and the 1060 got 1280. That's because the chip actually got 3840. You can already guess what's going to happen. Yep, a 1080 Ti or whatever they're going to call it or another Titan or both. Depending on what AMD offers. On that note, nVidia could sell the Titan XP for 1200$ until they got bored unless it got some competition. Guess when that's coming? First half of 2017, some say even Q1, but no one (probably not even AMD) is sure yet.
Bonus: Should AMD's new cards be able to beat the Titan XP, but not the full chip, so they need something cheaper than the XP, but can also afford to release another Titan, then think about what the VRAM size is going to be. Can't sell a 1080 Ti with 6GB when the 1080 already got 8GB. So unless they go with 9GB (which is possible but might be more expensive than 12GB), which is unlikely considering AMD is most likely going to offer 16GB (but at the very least 12GB), can't go on and on about "you can never have enough VRAM on a fast GPU) and then suddenly offer less on a faster GPU than your competitor, it's going to be 12GB for the 1080 Ti and 18 or 24GB for the new Titan.

So basically if I'm right in less than half a year there'll be GPU with the same or better performance, the same architecture, same VRAM for a lower price. That does not seem very future proofy to me.

I guess my point is you'd regret buying the Titan XP very soon.

Now onto CPUs: Kaby Lake is rolling out very slowly, but they started months ago. The i7-7700K etc. should be released at CES 2017 (early January) and definitely be widely (read: at normal prices) available in Q1, most likely already in February actually.

The other thing is Zen should happen around that time as well. And we're talking about 4 cores here, we're talking about up to 8 cores. No one can say for sure however how well they'll overclock though.

The i7-7700K will definitely be higher clocked than even the average overclock of the i7-6700K and should overclock better as well.

Then there's Skylake-X with up to 10 cores around the same time.

In early 2018 there'll be Coffee Lake with 6 cores so after a decade of 4 cores being the high end (<400$ though, you could always get more cores for xxxx$) we're moving to more cores again and there's no going back.

I can't guarantee that games will use more cores in the future, but it seems very likely. So if you want to "future proof" (I hate the word and it doesn't really work) then 4 cores might not cut it anymore. I mean for the next 2-3 years probably, but for 5 years probably not.

It's just not really a good time to buy now when better options are at worst 3 months away.

What I'd do is figure out the cause of the BSODs. If it's a software problem fix it, if it's a hardware problem fix it if it's cheap enough to fix. Judging by how much money you're willing to spend your current pc is probably worth a fair bit if it works. The resale value of broken pcs isn't nearly as good.

#1870
What reviews have you been reading?

It's a PSU. It doesn't care whether something is overclocked or not. It doesn't care if you're gaming or not. It doesn't even know. It just delivers power. That build is not going to use over 400W, even overclocked, so a 450W PSU is plenty.

I know there are some weird recommendations out there (e.g. nVidia recommending a 600W PSU for a 200W GPU) because some manufacturers decided to sell 250W PSUs as 500W PSUs, which obviously don't work when you try to actually draw >300W. The CXM 450 can deliver 450W (actually a bit more) so I wouldn't be concerned.

EDIT: Better cooler if you can afford it: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/jCFcRG