I can't see where you wrote that, quote please?
Also I really don't understand why that would mean that I have to explain why the mic position would cause that exact change in a closed lid, when I theorized it was open.
But here we go.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j92/udauda/HRTF.gif
Helmholtz resonance in the concha, rolloff and a peak before that. Exactly what we're looking at.

It was to show the variance, it's kind of hard to find measurements for different positions.
I'm pretty sure you can't ignore the hair.

Where did you get that number? I can't read the scale so I don't know if it's 6db.
Not sure if something got lost in translation.

Sample size is irrelevant, you heard it here first folks.

We were talking about treble, not bass.

I never claimed that?

You're trying to combined the two things I did say.
1. His measurements won't be consistent. Mostly due to HRTF. In case you didn't notice there's his hair between the driver and the mic and all around the cup. (sample size = 1 is a big no go as well)
2. I don't think break-in is a measurable issue.

HRTF could case the peaking and rolloff anyway.
http://www.ap.com/images/audio.tst/2010/07/pinnae.png
Lots of varation as you can see.

That doesn't matter?
What matters is whether or not it affects FR measurably. If it affects other things but not FR it's not relevant in this case.
It's also unlikely to be linear or headphones would break fairly quickly. However if it slows, even if it were a noticable change, it would only be an issue if one pair is brand new and the other isn't.

Again, just show me measurements and I'll believe you. So far you haven't done that.

I used an example for inconsistent measurements.
You complain about the measurements being inconsistent.

10/10 logic.

Show me measurements that show break-in on these headphones.

I don't believe in break-in. Also it wouldn't show up in FR.
http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/measurement-and-audibility-headphone-break

Using the same mic is a prerequisite.
Different mic position makes a big difference even if the mic wasn't breaking the seal. By just sticking it in that way isolation and FR become a mess.
https://youtu.be/ejCz5bWvBZM?t=37
https://youtu.be/ejCz5bWvBZM?t=226
The difference starts in the mids.
I don't even know the frequency range of the analyzer, whether it's logarithmic or linear.

http://www.innerfidelity.com/images/SonyMDRV6.pdf
Look at the grey lines on the bottom in the top left graph.
Same headphone, same microphone, same day.
Different positions.
And that's without screwing up the isolation.

7506 uses the same driver but later models use a neodymium instead of the samarium-cobalt magnet that older 7506 and the V6 used.

Also that testing "methodology" won't get you consistent results anyway.

Wireless?

I'd say 390. Power consumption won't be a problem, if anything a 750W PSU is overkill. Also it should be faster on 1080p once there's new drivers. In all other games and on 1440p and 4K it's already faster.

1. I don't think you need an aftermarket cooler for the i5-6500.
2. You don't need a new CPU at all. Your only bottleneck is the 5770.
3. "play at least medium/high settings comfortably on my 120hz monitor at 1080p" does that mean you want 120fps? Because that's not happening, we're talking about a 980 Ti for 120fps on medium.

To get 60+ fps at all times you are indeed looking at a 285/380 or 960.
For High/Ultra 60fps a 380X would be enough, but since you don't need to replace CPU or mobo a 390 or 970 would still be within budget.

Also keep GodRays on low. No visible difference (some have even said they look better on low & medium than on ultra) and they cost a lot of fps.

mb = millibit.
Do you mean MB/s, MiB/s or Mb/s = Mbit/s?
Assuming you don't have a ~200Mbit/s internet connection it's Mbit/s.
Even 802.11a or g should do 23 or 19 Mbit/s. So unless either your router or the receiving wifi device is from the 90s something is wrong.

Check what both devices support. There's no point in upgrading your router if your pc only supports a/b/g anyway.

#808
Iirc you can get it to run with at least 3 threads. They do even less than in TF2 though. That's why I said "pretty much only single threaded".

http://images.anandtech.com/graphs/graph8232/65161.png

#804
Witcher 3 sets the GPU minimum, ~380/285.
Dolphin is pretty much only single threaded iirc.
In terms of multi threaded an i3 should be enough. The 6320 isn't available yet, so the 6300 would have to do.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-6300 3.8GHz Dual-Core Processor ($156.97 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B150M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($76.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill NT Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($47.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($86.97 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($42.50 @ Amazon)
Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 380 4GB Double Dissipation Video Card ($172.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $644.37
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-09 15:38 EST-0500

The only upgrades that make sense, if you don't need/want any more/faster storage would be an i5 and a 380X once it's released.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($215.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B150M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($76.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill NT Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($47.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($86.97 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($42.50 @ Amazon)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Other: 380X ($250.00)
Total: $780.41
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-09 15:42 EST-0500

EDIT:
#805
He'll have to replace the PSU. If it is the model I think it is max 180W on +12V rail, it can't handle adding a GPU.
The CPU will have to do for now.
I'm not sure what the prices are like for you, but 260X (maybe a bit better) + PSU should be possible.

#806
How much storage do you need? With this budget it's rather significant.
TF2 > Dolphin? Or do you need more than 60fps, because for Dolphin overclocking a G3258 would be the best option, for TF2 you'd want an i3.

#802
Could you be slightly more specific than "most games"?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_PC_games

Also Overwatch is still in closed beta, I have not seen any benchmarks yet and no one can guarantee that performance is going to be the same in the release version. It could be better or worse.

Mathematically speaking you should do it if E[X] > 0 with
E[X] = p * mc - rc.
p = probability of the repair being successful.
mc = cost of a working monitor in comparable condition.
rc = repair cost.

To answer your question though, you are already commited to ASUS. I don't think they'll refund shipping costs, so getting it back to have it fixed locally will most likely be more expensive, since not only would the local shop have to be cheaper, it'd have to be cheaper by more than what you already payed for shipping plus what you're going to pay for the inspection and shipping back to you.
A local shop is also far less likely to be able to get replacement parts.

Imho the "no guarantee" clause is for the case that they've missed more damage and the repair they'd done wouldn't be enough. Unless the product is EOL anything can be fixed, simply by swapping every part, so for you the worst case is that the repair might become more expensive.

You should check how much the repair including shipping and taxes would actually cost you at this point.

I could be mistaken with everyone else saying that a new monitor is only "110$ more" or "twice the price", but aren't you in Canada? It's 330 CAD for a new VG248QE. So anything below 165$ is half the price of a new one.

#800
I don't understand.
Do you want an APU because the pc will last you a long time or because an APU will last you a long time? Both of these assumptions are false by the way.

Do you want a pc that gets you the best bang for buck or an APU? Because APU means two things: horrible GPU performance and AMD = horrible single threaded performance.
Horrible GPU performance means you'll have to get a discrete GPU anyway, which means getting an APU over a CPU was a waste of money. That means you definitely won't get the best bang for buck.
Horrible single threaded performance means terrible performance in TF2. Terrible performance is quite the opposite of "maximum potential". It also means AMD will not get you the best bang for buck in TF2. In other things it used to, but those times have passed for now (Zen is coming, GET HYPE) and it TF2 it never was the case.

So APU and best bang for buck or as you called it "maximum potential that 400-450 can get me" are mutually exclusive.

Do you need a complete build or are you going to reuse anything?
What about peripherals?

Once I know that I might be able to "give computer help".

Of course, the one thing I don't mention forever because "surely he already tried that"... Same as always.

Well something somewhere in your config is messed up.
It's time to have a good look at it and replace some of the old parts.